Wanstead - a light-hearted look at where and what it is

Wanstead is an area of east London approximately 6.85 miles (as well as 11 Kilometers) north-east of the City of London. This distance is taken from St Paul's Cathedral to Christ Church, near Wanstead High Street, and is as a Crow (Corvus corone) - flying in an incredibly straight line - might fly.

It is an east London suburb which still has something of the feel of a village about it - though only just. It is located between the River Lea (or Lee) to the west, which is the historical boundary between Middlesex and Essex, and the River Roding to the east; which is the more recent boundary between a postal district of east London and one of Ilford, Essex.

In 2024 the estimated population was something like 100,000. This number includes the neighbouring area of Leyton, because Wanstead is part of the Parliamentary Constituency of Leyton and Wanstead.

Wanstead is in Greater London, part of the London Borough of Redbridge. It is also in Essex. In fact, so deep rooted is the fact that Wanstead is in Essex (that is, east of the River Lea or Lee) that many inhabitants insist that letters sent to them via the Royal Mail postal service are addressed as "Wanstead, Essex". This is despite the fact that they are actually in Leytonstone, LONDON, E11, as far as Royal Mail's routing codes (addresses) for letters are concerned.

But Wanstead is greater than a routing code; the Red Bridge itself (or at least the bridge that replaced the Red Bridge) crosses the River Roding to the east, and which is crossed by the Eastern Avenue (the A12). Beyond is the area known as Redbridge (hence the name of the Central Line station). Redbridge is part of Ilford, which is part of the London Borough of Redbridge, and the London Borough of Redbridge is in Greater London. But it is also definitely in Essex, if only because the postal addresses say so (ILFORD, Essex, IG...). And it is east of the River Lea. 

Just to the west of Wanstead is that part of Wanstead which is called Snaresbrook, and a little further west still the Borough boundary is crossed, and Waltham Forest (London Borough of) is entered. Here we are in Walthamstow (LONDON, E17), so we have left Wanstead.

Wanstead contains within its boundaries a little-known marvel - Wanstead Park. It is part of Epping Forest, as is Wanstead Flats - although these flats are not in Wanstead and are not a block of flats, but primarily open grassland. Wanstead Park and Wanstead Flats of course are included in the area studied within WansteadWildlife's remit.

Other areas - not in Wanstead - but within the remit of WansteadWildlife - are Bush Wood, Leyton Flats and Gilbert's Slade, which are all parts of Epping Forest. Wanstead Park is separated only by a single road (Blake Hall Road) from Bush Wood. This in turn is separated only by the Green Man roundabout from Leyton Flats (which are, in fact, adjacent to Leytonstone). Leyton Flats are also not a block of flats (ie high-rise buildings), but a mainly flat area of grassland with lots of trees and shrubs. It is part the London Borough of Walthamstow, which we entered north of Snaresbrook.

Just across the Snaresbrook Road, north of Leyton Flats, the Forest of Epping continues northwards through an area known as Gilbert's Slade. It is not far from Wanstead, and adjacent to it, and the wildlife (I'll get round to that in more detail) is just as interesting, so it has been included in the "in and around Wanstead" label. But at the north end of Gilbert's Slade, Epping Forest has been gashed more severely even than at the Green Man roundabout in Leytonstone. Thus this part of Epping Forest is probably known more to motorists than to naturalists. It is Waterworks Corner. And here - at least in a northerly direction - it is convenient to limit the extent of "in and around Wanstead".

The western delineation is quite conveniently made by the edge of Epping Forest itself, down to Whipps Cross roundabout.

And what about the southern boundary? It follows Capel Road and Forest View Road, both of which are adjacent to Wanstead Flats. By 'the Flats' are the enclaves of Lake House and Aldersbrook - both rather nice estates of houses adjacent to parts of Epping Forest. The Lake House estate is situated between Bush Wood and Wanstead Flats and is in Leytonstone E11 (or Wanstead, Essex) in the London Borough of Redbridge, and Aldersbrook is situated between Wanstead Park and Wanstead Flats and is in Manor Park E12 (or Wanstead, Essex) - in the London Borough of Redbridge.

Part of the south edge of Wanstead Flats abuts on to Forest Gate in the London Borough of Newham. This is the Forest Gate that is LONDON, E7, although it is probable that a few residents would prefer to be thought of as being in Wanstead, Essex. The nearest railway station in Forest Gate to Wanstead Flats is Wanstead Park, so this may support their claim (though not their postal routing code). The other part of the south edge of Wanstead Flats - more to the east - are adjacent to Manor Park, which is LONDON E12. The Flats themselves are in Redbridge (mostly).

The western edge of Wanstead Flats, nearer to Forest Gate, still abuts on to Forest Gate (E7), although in the vicinity of the Jubilee Pond, the houses in Forest Gate are in the London Borough of Walthamstow. Indeed, by Sidney Road in Forest Gate, even what is considered here to be part of Wanstead Flats (LB Redbridge - remember?) is in LB Waltham Forest. Further north - across Lakehouse Road - the houses that act as a boundary to the Flats are in Leytonstone (E11). The Flats here merge into Bush Wood.

So that brief outline encompasses Wanstead itself, (the village/town), and neighbouring parts of Epping Forest which are incorporated into the study area dealt with here. But still - where to stop? Because the wildlife doesn't necessarily stop anywhere. It is no revelation to anybody that a totally wild fox may be seen wandering through any of the streets, housing estates or forest already mentioned. Or, indeed, in the City of London Cemetery (which is in Newham, by the way).

Within Wanstead - for example St Mary's churchyard - or near to it (eg the City of London Cemetery or the Alders Brook) are areas of 'wild' or semi-wild habitats that have a host of wildlife. They also have a host of non- 'wild' life, particularly species of plants that have been deliberately introduced but nevertheless contribute enormously to the diversity of habitats, species and the ecology of the area.

'Wanstead Wildlife' then will strive to take account of the area primarily looking at the animals, birds and plants that may be found here, something of the history which has led to how it is today, a little of the ecology of the area, and issues that arise relating to these aspects.

Paul Ferris, 7th March 2007, with updates

Views and Aspects of the City of London Cemetery (1) Buildings

Here are some aspects of the City of London Cemetery and Crematorium which do not necessarily have a wildlife connection, they just reflect the Cemetery and its landscape.

The cemetery landscape is Grade I listed in the Heritage Category of Park and Garden by Historic England (https://historicengland.org.uk/), the Government department that describes itself as 'the public body that looks after England's historic environment'. There are a further eight buildings and monuments within the 200 acre site that are listed as Grade II.

The cemetery is notable for the large number of re-burials of remains from the City of London churches. The City churchyards were full - if not actually overflowing - with remains. A number of cemeteries were built around London in the mid-nineteenth century to relieve the pressure. The grounds of the City of London Cemetery were laid out in 1855. The first interment took place on 24th June 1856, although the grounds were opened first on 24th July 1856. Some of the remains from City churches were transferred to the City of London Cemetery and are often marked with a grand monument.

An on-line search may well result in many photographs of some of the grander monuments, or of more well-known people buried there, but I hope to include some lesser-known - and less grand - graves and memorials and some other aspects that I have found interesting.

On this page are some of the buildings which make up the cemetery and crematorium. Other pages will include some of the memorials, and some general features.

All of the photographs included here were taken by myself.

Link to Memorials in the Cemetery

Link to Other Features of the Cemetery

The Main Gate of the City of London Cemetery, on a cold day in February 2009

MAIN ENTRANCE SCREEN AND LODGES

The photo shows the main entrance gateway, which is the view most people would have if visiting. There is another gateway - with no additional structure apart from gateposts - to the east near the junction of Rabbits Road with Forest View Road. This is known as the South Gate, but is rarely open.

The main entrance gateway and the associated buildings to the right, including the café, the florist and the gatekeepers office, was originally the Porter's Lodge. To the left of the gateway is what was originally the Superintendent's House, but are now the administration buildings and enquiries office. These are all Grade II listed. (List Entry Number: 1080984*)

Above the vehicle entrance is a large carved panel with the City of London's coat of arms. Above the pedestrian gates are some ornamental tablets set into the masonry depicting the construction date of the cemetery (1855), the Heraldic Shield of the City of London, the renovation date of the gateway (1898), and a somewhat worn and indistinct shield at the bottom of which is the motto Dum spiro spero, which translates to "While I breathe, I hope".

City of London Emblem

'Erected AD 1855'

'Restored AD 1898'

Dum spiro spero - "While I breathe, I hope"

Offices and Public Enquiries buildingADMINISTRATION AND PUBLIC ENQUIRIES BUILDING

The buildings to the left of the gate are the offices and administration buildings, part of the ground floor being used for public enquiries.

This view is from outside the railings of the cemetery, where there is a car park.

The vehicle which can be seen is used to carry people to more distant parts of the cemetery if they so require. There are something like 7.5 miles of road within the grounds.

A view across the garden lawn to the cafe outside seating area and the gatehouse buildingsTHE CEMETERY CAFE AND GARDENS

The buildings to the right of the main gate are used by the gatekeeper staff, a florist, administration offices upstairs, and a cafe to the rear. This opened originally as 'The Gatehouse Pantry', then became the 'Poppy Pantry'. With seating provisions inside, and outside in the pleasant gardens, the cafe has proved very popular. For a time the cafe was run by the Royal Voluntary Service, but this closed in March 2023. In June 2024 the cafe was opened once again under a new management.

The Chapel, City of London Cemetery

THE CHAPEL

Straight ahead from the main gate, along Chapel Avenue, is the Chapel. This was originally know as the Dissenters' or Non-Conformist Chapel. It is visible from the Main Gate, but is largely obscured by trees lining the roadway - particularly the branches of a fine conifer close to the chapel. It is octagonal in shape, with a large rose window above the entrance doorway.Interior of the Chapel. Part of the octagonal design can be seen.

This is another Grade II listed building.

The Church, City of London Cemetery

THE CHURCH

Also known as the Church Chapel or Anglican Chapel, from the main gate is at the NW end of Church Avenue. As with the Dissenters' Chapel, it was designed to be visible from the main gate, but the view is largely obscured now by trees.

It can also be described as being at the 'west end of Central Avenue', and Central Avenue was intended to be the main approach-way for funeral services. The cemetery was built in the mid-19th C., at a time when railways were gaining prominence. The intention was that a special railway station be built between what is now Manor Park Station and Ilford, and the coffins and funerary procession would use the railway to get to the new cemetery. The station was never built; the present day Manor Park Station was instead. There is a gate at the extreme south-east corner of the cemetery, adjacent to the area known locally as 'The Butts' and close to the pedestrian underpass to Little Ilford. If one takes the train between Manor Park and Ilford stations, looking down from the train viaduct one can see what looks as though it may have been a siding - perhaps one intended for the funeral trains?

A dog-like 'grotesque' architectural feature on the ChurchThe Church has a tall (19m) crocketed spire, below which hang a number of dog-like creatures. These take the form of gargoyles, but as they don't appear to spout rainwater from the roof, they are perhaps better called 'grotesques', an architectural term for a fantastic or mythical figure carved or moulded onto a building for ornamental purposes. The term 'chimera' may also be used. (See Wikipedia article).

This is another of the cemetery's Grade II listed buildings

1855 Drain-pipe fitting

Three winged creatures on the Church's east side.

Above two windows on the west side are three more carvings, in the form of winged creatures. Also on the east side of the Church is a drain-pipe fitting, dated 1855, which corresponds to the year in which the grounds of the cemetery were laid out.

The Traditional Crematorium, or East Chapel

 THE TRADITIONAL CREMATORIUM BUILDING

This was the second crematorium in London and was opened in October 1904. (source: London Metropolitan Archives Collection Catalogue). The first cremation took place in March 1905. Since the new crematorium was built in 1971 this building is no longer used as such, but is now a Chapel of Remembrance, known as The East Chapel. This is a bit confusing, as it was for a time known as the South Chapel.

To the right of the door, an inscription in the stonework say: EAST CHAPEL. It can be seen, though, that the word 'East' has replaced another word - presumably 'South'.

To the left hand side of the door, a stone inscription states:

CITY OF LONDON BURIAL BOARD / THIS CREMATORIUM WAS OPENED BY / WILLIAM JOSEPH DOWNES ESQ^re / CHAIRMAN OF THE SANITARY COMMITTEE / ACTING AS THE BURIAL BOARD FOR THE CITY OF LONDON / ON THE 25^th OCTOBER 1904

The building is Grade II listed.

The Cottage in the City of London Cemetery

THE COTTAGE IN BELFRY ROAD

The Cottage, also known as The Lodge, was built in 1855 to a design by William Haywood. This is another Grade II listed building.

The photograph was taken on 2nd March 2023

The South Chapel (Crematorium Building) with the catacombs in the distance and a pond to the right

NORTH AND SOUTH CHAPELS AND CREMATORIUM BUILDING

A new, modern, cremation facility was built in 1971, close to the intersection of the 6-way junction (a rond-point) which is reached from the main gate by way of Chapel Avenue.

Above the cremation chamber are two chapels, known as the North Chapel and the South Chapel. I suggest that it was unfortunate that the building was situated in the valley of the Alders Brook, as this has to a large degree spoilt the intended view of the Catacombs when seen down the valley from the south-west.

The Catacombs

 THE CATACOMBS AND COLUMBARIUM

The Catacombs are situated at the NE end of Rhododendron Avenue, although they are more readily located by walking down Chapel Avenue from the main gate until the 6-way junction is reached, where are the modern North and South Crematorium Chapels. The Catacombs can be seen in the distance beyond the South Chapel.

The catacombs are built into a bank which - when what is now the cemetery was the lands of Aldersbrook Manor (see here) - would have been the retaining bank of the 'Great Pond'. This was an ornamental feature created by the damming of the Alders Brook, a small stream running in a NE direction from Wanstead Flats. The course of the brook can be clearly ascertained by the realisation that Rhododendron Avenue, together with the crematorium buildings, lie in a shallow valley.

The catacombs apparently were never really succesful as a means of commemorating the dead, and part of them have now been converted into a columbarium. We have a wildife connection here as 'columbarium' means dovecote, from columba dove. I doubt that catacombs relate in any way to cats.

The Catacombs are Grade II listed.

A toilet block near to the ChurchTOILET BLOCK

The grounds are well endowed with toilets, and these are usually set discreetly and unobtrusively in their locations. Often they are of designs in keeping with other buldings within the cemetery, as is this one near the church.

 Old Stable BuildingOLD STABLE BLOCK

In an area of the cemetery which is not part of the public access, is an old building which I assume was a stable block.

I am not sure what specific purpose it is used for nowadays, but as may be seen from the photograph, the area is used for storage and maintenance.

Link to Memorials in the Cemetery

Link to Other Features of the Cemetery

Paul Ferris  (begun 28th February 2023)

References:

* Grade Listed Buildings: https://historicengland.org.uk/

(1) A Geological Walk in the City of London Cemetery. Wendy Kirk and David Cook. Aldersbrook Geological Society

(2) https://hidden-london.com/nuggets/city-of-london-dragons/

(3) Coughlin, Con (2013). Churchill's First War: Young Winston at War with the Afghans. New York: St. Martin's Press. p. 63.

(4) https://www.companyofnurses.co.uk/annie-brewster-remembered/

(5) The City of London Cemetry Heritage Brochure (Edition 2, 2004)

Views and Aspects of the City of London Cemetery (3) Other Features

I have included here some aspects of the City of London Cemetery and Crematorium which are neither buildings or memorials, just some features which I have found interesting. They do not necessarily have a wildlife connection although some - at least remotely - may have.

All of the photographs included here were taken by myself.

For Buildings in the Cemetery

For Memorials in the Cemetery

 The Modern-Crematorium Pond prior to renovation in 2025 - complete with heron

THE MODERN CREMATORIUM POND

Adjacent to the South Chapel of the modern crematorium is a large ornamental pond which, until it was drained in 2025 in preparation for renovation, had water-lilies, some very large carp, usually moorhens and coots, and often a heron. A quiet fountain and a waterfall add to the ambience, and there was a pleasant selection of water-side plants edging the pond.

THE OLD CREMATORIUM POND AND THE SUNKEN GARDEN

The Old Crematorium Pond - at least, that's what I call it - is just to the north-east of the East Chapel and is a peaceful place to stand and perhaps watch a herd of terrapins and some flocks of large carp, or maybe - also watching the carp - a statuesque heron. Just to the west, across Limes Avenue, is a sunken garden which is perhaps even more peaceful as it has benches, no terrapins or carp - just perhaps butterflies, bees, birds, bushes and plants.

The Sunken Garden in the City of London Cemetery

The Old Crematorium Pond

The Brewster Oak, City of London Cemetery 150th Anniversary

THE BREWSTER OAK

Following Chapel Avenue directly ahead from the main gate, on the left of Chapel Avenue is the Brewster Oak. On 13th August 2006 an Open Day was held to commemorate the 150th Anniversary of the cemetery. During the day an oak tree was planted on an area of lawn by Mr John W. Brewster OBE, Chairman of the Port Health & Environmental Services Committee.

The tree is an English Oak, Quecus robur, and the photograph was taken in 2018.

Passion Flower Sculpting on a Celtic Cross

PASSION FLOWER SCULPTING

At least nature-related, this one - a Passion Flower decoration on a Celtic Cross.

The structure of the Passion Flower is said to represent the elements of the Passion of Christ: the lacy crown = the crown of thorns; the style = the three nails; the five anthers = the five wounds; the ten petals = the 10 faithful Apostles.

The grave is near the Church, and the text reads:

IN LOVING REMEMBRANCE OF / THOMAS HARVERSON, / OF WANSTEAD. / WHO DEPARTED THIS LIFE / SEPT^R 10^TH 1890, / IN HIS 67^TH YEAR

Garlanded AngelPLANTS USED AS A GARLAND

There are many sculptures of angels in the cemetery, and this one appears to have decorated itself with a garland of ivy.

It is remarkable too that the figure has retained both its arms and hands, as so often these are missing.

BUS SHELTER

Not really - not a shelter for buses at all, nor even a bus stop. You would wait a very long time, although there are cemetery transport vehicles that might be used to convey people to a distant part of the cemetery if there is a need.

I think there are 13 of these shelters which - of course - are for people to rest or shelter in.

One of the distinctive City of London waste bins can be seen to the right.

And sometimes a proper bus might turn up... this Routemaster was used for a funeral service on 12th October 2006.

Pedestrian Shelter

 Sometimes a bus does turn up inside the cemetery - Routemaster RM298, 'Rose'

Routemaster RML 2380 in the car park by the Main Gate

A leopard-skin hearse

Not that there aren't lots of real foxes living in the cemetery - it's almost unusual to visit without seing at least one - and especially when visiting the cemetery cafe.

The wooden carving below was on stump of a tree in the memorial gardens, enclosed within a square of benches, however eventually it succumbed to the fungal rot that had caused the tree to be felled in the first place.

A wooden fox, carved from a felled treeA real fox, having a scratch amongst the gravestones

Koala Bear Carving

KOALA BEAR CARVING

I am not sure whether this is supposed to represent a koala bear - perhaps it is a monkey, or even a goblin. And I am not sure on the corner of which grave I saw it to take the photograph. I keep looking out for it in the hope that some of the inscription on the grave might give a hint.

THE BIRCHES NATURE RESERVE

In a somewhat remote northerly part of the cemetery, best accessed from Limes Avenue, is The Birches Nature Reserve.

This was created in 2006 in a wooded area that was unsuitable for use as a burial site. The small stream known as the Alders Brook runs through here, so it has formed a shallow valley which over the years has developed into a woodland. At some time a pond was dug to enhance the wildlife, and in fact this is the first visible appearance of the brook itself. There is more information on The Birches here.

Inside the Nature Reserve

Outside of the Birches Nature Reserve

 The Birches Pond, showing the culvert from which the Alders Brook exits.THE ALDERS BROOK

Within the Birches Nature Reserve the first above-ground view of the Alders Brook may be had, in the form of water issuing from a culvert into a small pond or wet area. Until this point the water flows undergound through a culvert.

The egress from the culvert can be seen in the photograph (just right of centre). More information about the brook can be found here.

One of the manhole covers, presumably allowing access to the culverted Alders Brook, looking towards Haywoods Lawn.The apparent course of the brook as it flows through the cemetery can be traced from approximately 100 metres west of the main gate at West Boundary Road, in the form of a shallow valley. It then flows beneath Rhododendron Avenue as far as the Catacombs, and its route may be surmised by a series of manhole covers along the course. Beyond the Catacombs, from the main steps that lead to the terrace above those, manholes may again be seen as far as the raised land now known as Haywoods Lawn.

On the lawn itself - a recently established area for burials - and in line with the photograph on the right, is another manhole access, although at present it is not obvious within the newly established area.

Hindu shrine to Lord Shiva

HINDU SHRINE TO SHIVA

The cemetery is open to burials and cremations from people of all religions and none, and from anywhere - not just the City of London. Almost certainly, though, the majority will be either Christian or Atheist.

Not far from the modern crematorium building, on Central Avenue, is a monument which is a Hindu shrine to the deity Lord Shiva.

Ordnance Survey Benchmark in the City of London Cemetery.ORDNANCE SURVEY BENCHMARK

A not-very-obvious aspect of the cemetery is this Ordnance Survey (O.S.) benchmark, located on the SE corner of the Church.

O.S. benchmarks are intended to be permanent markers to which a reference of the height-above-sea-level at that point is made, and shown on O.S.maps. The height above sea level is based on the 'Ordnance Datum Newlyn (ODN)', that is, the height above the level of the mean high tide at Newlyn in Cornwall.

The actual datum mark is the horizontal line incised into the stonework, shown in the centre of the photograph. The upwards-pointing arrow makes clear where and what it is. In this case the O.S. Six Inch map of 1888-1915 shows a height of 47.5.

In the O.S. Benchmark Archive - freely dowladable from their website - it is referenced thus :  TQ,4186,8656,14.1703,N,4,3, ,0.2,1977, ,BUTT C OF E CHAPEL CITY OF LONDON CEMY E FACE SE ANG

With the advent of G.P.S. (Global Positioning Service), and the accuracy enabled by that system, to a great extent the use of benchmarks has been superceded. Many still remain but are not maintained, so they may eventually disappear.

The mark was still visible in 2024, but less discernable.

WEST HAM PARISH BOUNDARY MARKER, AND A LITTER BIN

 A familiar City of London street bin. These were used in the City itself until thought to be a danger in case of terrorist bombs.West Ham Parish Council Boundary Marker set into the stonework of the church (I think). Dated 1901

Mystery mark and textMYSTERY MARK

I was somewhat uncertain what this mark and text on the side of a grave in Poplar Road represents, but the the grave is dedicted to John Chidlaw Percival CBE FRICS.

It states 'VIEW  =)  REST PLACE 16th AUGUST 2006' with what looks like an elongated = (equals) sign and a thin crescent moon symbol between VIEW and REST.

As John Percival was a Fellow of the Royal Institution of Chartered Surveyors I surmise that the sign relates to that profession.

For Buildings in the Cemetery

For Memorials in the Cemetery

Paul Ferris  (begun 28th February 2023)

References:

* Grade Listed Buildings: https://historicengland.org.uk/

(1) A Geological Walk in the City of London Cemetery. Wendy Kirk and David Cook. Aldersbrook Geological Society

(2) https://hidden-london.com/nuggets/city-of-london-dragons/

(3) Coughlin, Con (2013). Churchill's First War: Young Winston at War with the Afghans. New York: St. Martin's Press. p. 63.

(4) https://www.companyofnurses.co.uk/annie-brewster-remembered/

(5) The City of London Cemetry Heritage Brochure (Edition 2, 2004)

Views and Aspects of the City of London Cemetery (2) Memorials

On this page I have included some of the memorials - monuments, graves and plaques - to those buried, cremated or commemorated here

The cemetery does not contain a large number of notable persons - perhaps the most visited memorial these days might be to the footballer Bobby Moore. Others include five possible victims of 'Jack the Ripper':  Emma Elizabeth Smith, Annie Millwood, Martha Tabram, Mary Ann Nichols and Catherine Eddowes, as well as Alfred Lawrence Foster, one of the police inspectors who dealt with these cases. Joseph Carey Merrick, sometimes mis-named John Merrick, is also buried here, although his skeleton resides in Barts Hospital. Sadly, he is perhaps best known as 'The Elephant Man'. The cemetery is notable, however, for the large number of re-burials of remains from the City of London churches. The City churchyards were full - sometimes overflowing - with remains. A number of cemeteries were built around London at about this time to relieve the pressure, and some the remains were transferred to the City of London Cemetery and are often marked with a grand monument.

An on-line search may well result in many photographs of some of the grander monuments, or to those more well-known people, but I hope to include some lesser-known - and less grand - graves and memorials and some other aspects that I have found interesting, too. All of the photographs were taken by myself.

Buildings in the cemetery, other than memorials, are here

Other Features of the Cemetery are available here

LIEUTENANT COLONEL WILLIAM HAYWOOD MAUSOLEUMThe Haywood Mausoleum

William Haywood (1821-1894) was an architect and engineer and surveyor to the City of London Commissioners of Sewers, and was the the designer of the cemetery. His mausoleum is a short distance inside the main gate, along Chapel Avenue and on the left.

This is an imposing Grade II listed building (* List Entry Number: 1190633) , with inscriptions on the side panels stating that within are the ashes of William Haywood and his wife Jemima Emma Haywood. Interestingly, if you look through the entance doorway railings, a bust of William is on the left, and one of his wife on the right. Below each of those is a niche for a container for the ashes. That of Jemima has a casket containing - presumably - the ashes, but the receptacle for William is clearly empty. This seems to suggest that - contrary to the statements on the exterior of the building, his ashes are not contained therein. Both were cremated at Woking.

Further research into William Haywood has shown him to be a very interesting character - and that Jemima was in fact not married to him but was his Common Law wife.

Exterior inscription for William Haywood

Exterior inscription for Jemima Haywood

Interior of William Haywood Mausoleum

Colonel William Sedgwick Saunders

WILLIAM SEDGWICK SAUNDERS MEMORIAL

Almost opposite the Haywood Mausoleum is a classic-style memorial to William Sedgwick Saunders (1825-1901).

He was the Medical Officer of Health for the City of London, a position which relates intrinsically with the creation of the cemetery. The City of London's graveyards were too full, and it was realised that there was a health risk from the decaying corpses that were often buried shallowly with only a few inches of soil-cover. It was for this reason that land was found to create a large new burial place, big enough not just for the City itself, but the neighbouring areas.

PEDLEY VAULTS

The Pedley Vaults are situated either side of Anchor Road, NE of the Church and on the way to the Chapel. These two large structures face each other, and are the only two of their kind in the cemetery.

Joshua Pedley (1829-1910) was born at West Ham, and qualified as a solicitor in 1854. After he moved in the 1860s or 70s to Tottenham, he resided at Trafalgar House in White Hart Lane, living there for the rest of his life. He became very involved in the local community, including several charities; following the ethics of well-off people of the time he was quite a philanthropist.

The vault facing those of the Pedley Family are dedicated to Hasluck.

Pedley Family Vault

 Hasluck Vault

St. Andrews Holborn and St. Sepulchre Holborn Memorial

MEMORIAL TO THE DECEASED OF ST ANDREWS AND ST SEPULCHRE HOLBORN

This is perhaps the largest memorial in the cemetery, and was designed by William Haywood. It is a Listed Building Grade:II in the Historic England Register (List Entry Number:1080987)

Burial remains from the two churchyards - St. Andrews Holborn and St. Sepulchre Holborn - were removed to the City of London Cemetery in 1866. The churchyards were extremely overcrowded, and the land was due for redevolopment. Between eleven and twelve thousand bodies were removed from St. Andrew’s alone. ⁽¹⁾

City Dragon - or GriffinOn the four corners of the monument are carvings of mythical creatures. These appear to be representations of the 'Griffin' symbol which is used to represent the City of London. This symbol - although commonly referred to as a Griffin or Gryphon - is more correctly a Dragon.⁽²⁾ A griffin is described as having the body of a lion and the head of an eagle. The Coat of Arms of the City has a pair of dragons, together with the Cross of St George.

Memorial to the re-interred from the Church of St Peter, Paul's Wharf, City of London

CHURCH OF ST. PETER, PAUL'S WHARF

Something of a contrast to the great monument to St Andrews and St Sepulchre, the  remains of those reinterred from the Church of St Peter, Paul's Wharf in the City of London is marked only by a single flat slab. 

The church was destroyed by fire during the Great Fire of London in 1666.

Parts of the inscription are difficult to read because of moss-growth but is something like this:

ANNO DOMINI (????)

IN THE GROUND ARE RE-INTERRED / THE EARTHLY REMAINS OF PERSONS / BURIED IN THE FORMER CHURCH YARD / (OF) (ST) PETER, PAUL'S WHARF IN THE / CITY OF LONDON

(THEN) (SHALL) MY REDEEMER COMETH

Memorial St Olave-Jewry and St Martin-Pomeroy

ST. OLAVE-JEWRY AND ST. MARTIN POMEROY

Situated north of the Church is the memorial to the re-interred remains of persons buried originally at St. Olave-Jewry and St. Martin-Pomeroy Churches in London.

Apparently, St. Martin Pomeroy was the correct name of the second of the churches, but the inscription on the memorial clearly reads 'POMERY'

The text reads:

SACRED / TO THE / MEMORY OF THE PERSONS / BURIED IN THE CHURCH OF THE / UNITED PARISHES OF /

S.OLAVE-JEWRY / AND / S.MARTIN-POMERY

IN THE CITY OF LONDON / WHOSE REMAINS IN CONSEQUENCE OF THE / CHURCH BEING TAKEN DOWN UNDER / THE UNION OF BENEFICES /ACT 23 & 24 VICT CAP 142.

WERE REMOVED THEREFROM AND / RE-INTERRED AT THIS SPOT / ANNO DOMINI 1889 / THE NAMES OF SUCH AS COULD BE / ASCERTAINED ARE INSCRIBED ON / THE SIDE HEREOF /

J.A.PLUMMER / EDWIN FOX / CHURCHWARDENS

Christ's Hospital MemorialCHRIST'S HOSPITAL MEMORIAL

Christ's Hospital was founded in London by King Edward VI in 1552, and moved to Horsham in Sussex in 1902. The cemetery was in Christchurch Greyfriars Churchyard, in Newgate Street opposite St. Paul's Cathedral.

I am uncertain whether any remains of persons buried there were actually reinterred in the City of London Cemetery, but there is a memorial to some of those persons.

One face of the memorial includes the following text:

ERECTED / BY THE / GOVERNORS OF CHRIST'S HOSPITAL / LONDON / TO THE MEMORY OF...

followed by a list of names.

The Vigiland Memorial

THE VIGILAND MEMORIAL

Another well-known and impressive memorial, that to Ordinary Seaman David John Vigiland R.N., a 20 year old mariner who died of an illness while serving in Mombasa, Kenya.

He was buried in the military cemetery section of Mombasa Cemetery in 1946, as per naval policy, but his parents wanted the body to be brought home to England. At first this was refused but after a campaign by his father, John Vigiland, the body was returned to the UK and reinterred here on December 9th 1952.   

The memorial was carved in Italy from a single 25 ton block of Carrera (Tuscany) marble, and dedicated in 1955. It is based on Rubens’ painting The Descent from the Cross. The Carrera marble should appear a bright white, but even since refurbishment and cleaning in 2002, it is soon darkened by pollution.

On the back of the monument are some photographs of John and his mother and father.

First World War Memorial GravesWAR GRAVES

After the First World War the Imperial War Graves Commision laid out an enclosure on St. Dionis Road for the graves and relatively simple headstones of some of those killed in that war. The simplicity of the designs of the headstones - although they do vary - was in contrast to many of the preceeding memorials of Victorian times - often grand and individualistic in design. The simpler and more uniform designs of the war graves set a trend towards the practice of what are known as 'Lawn Graves', and areas of land not used for burials before were brought into use to accomodate the burials, with just a headstone to mark the grave.

French Hospital Memorial

THE FRENCH HOSPITAL MEMORIAL

This is an imposing rough-cut granite rock, with two inset panels. The circular top one has the following text:

THE BURIAL GROUND OF THE / HOSPITAL FOR POOR FRENCH PROTESTANTS / AND THEIR DESCENDANTS / (INCORPORATED 1718)

The lower rectanglar panel reads:

HERE REST MANY CHILDREN OF THE STRANGER WHOSE LAST DAYS / WERE SPENT AT THE HOSPITAL OR HOSPICE FOUNDED BY FRENCH PROTESTANT / REFUGEES EARLY IN THE XV111 CENTURY FOR THE RECEPTION AND CARE OF THE / POOR AND AGED AMONG THEIR FELLOW EXILES AND THEIR DESCENDANTS /

WHEN THE SON OF MAN SHALL COME IN HIS GLORY, AND ALL THE HOLY ANGELS WITH HIM / THEN SHALL HE SIT UPON THE THRONE OF HIS GLORY AND BEFORE HIM SHALL BE GATHERED / ALL NATIONS / MATT XXV 3132

The family grave of John Thomas Bedford

FAMILY GRAVE OF JOHN THOMAS BEDFORD

John Thomas Bedford was a member of the Court of Common Council of the Corporation of London. He contributed articles under the pseudonym of "Robert the Waiter"  to The London Charivari, or Punch Magazine.

The family grave lies to the SE of the Church, and the inscription reads:

JOHN THOMAS BEDFORD / WHO DIED 1ST MARCH 1900 / AGED 87 YEARS

HE WAS FOR 31 YEARS A MEMBER OF THE CORPORATION OF THE / CITY OF LONDON AND DEVOTED / HIMSELF ZEALOUSLY AND SUCCESSFULLY TO THE / PRESERVATION OF EPPING FOREST, WEST HAM PARK / AND BURNHAM BEECHES FOR THE / HEALTHFUL ENJOYMENT AND RECREATION OF / THE PEOPLE

Robert Hunter Memorial

ROBERT HUNTER MEMORIAL

Robert Hunter was a lexicographer, missionary, geologist and a naturalist. There is a Blue Plaque at 7 Staples Road in Loughton stating that he lived there.

The memorial is located on North Boundary Road, between Memorial Avenue and Belfry Road, and reads:

TO THE MEMORY / OF THE REVEREND / ROBERT HUNTER M.A.LL.D.F.C.S. / AUTHOR OF / NUMEROUS WORKS BESIDES / THE ENCYCLOPAEDIC DICTIONARY / 

A MONUMENT OF / INDUSTRIOUS SCHOLARSHIP / BORN AT NEWBURGH FIFESHIRE / SEPT 3 1823 / DIED AT / FOREST RETREAT, LOUGHTON ESSEX / FEB 5 1897 / GENTLE, LEARNED, MODEST, DEVOUT / IN SOUL HE NEVER CEASED TO BE A CHILD

See here for more information

 EMMA ELIZABETH SMITH, ANNIE MILLWOOD, MARTHA TABRAM, MARY ANN NICHOLS, CATHERINE EDDOWES, ALFRED LAWRENCE FOSTER

There are five plaques in Gardens Way commemorating victims or possible victims of the Whitechapel murderer who became known as 'Jack the Ripper', and one of the police inspector - Alfred Lawrence Foster - who dealt with the case of Catherine Eddowes.

These five victims are known to have been buried near to where the plaques are placed. Where the Memorial Gardens are now were once an area of Common Graves. The graves themselves lie undisturbed, and may even be under Gardens Way now. It is common to see flowers and coins laid on the plaques.

A Common Grave, by the way, is a grave in which multiple people are buried at the same time. This could be for a variety of reasons, but may include anyone who couldn’t afford their own private plot, the homeless, suicides or criminals.

Emma Elizabeth Smith and Annie Millwood

Adjacent plaques in memory of Emma Elizabeth Smith and Annie Millwood. These were only placed in the cemetery in 2023, as part of the cemetery's 'Heritage Trail'

Emma Elizabeth Smith may have been the first of the victims of 'Jack the Ripper', during what were known as 'The Whitechapel Murders', being found murdered on 4th April 1888. Annie Millwood was admitted to Whitechapel infirmary having suffered from numerous stab wound. She survived the attack, but died of unrelated natural causes just a month later.

Martha Tabram

Martha Tabram was an early victim of the person who became known as Jack the Ripper. She died on 7th August 1888.

Mary Ann Nichols

Mary Ann Nichols - known as 'Polly' - was one the first of the victims. She died on 31st August 1888.

Catherine Eddowes

Catherine Eddowes is said to have been the the fourth victim. She died on 30th September 1888. The plaque has been in place for some years and - as with that of Mary Ann Nichols - commonly has coins or flowers placed upon it.

Superintendent Alfred Lawrence Foster

Superintendent Alfred Foster of the City of London Police, was called upon to deal with the murder of Catherine Eddowes on September 30th 1888. He retired from the police force at the age of 67 on 26th May 1892, and died on 13th December 1895.

Joseph Merrick - The Elephant Man

JOSEPH MERRICK - THE ELEPHANT MAN

Joseph Carey Merrick, sometimes mis-named John Merrick,is perhaps better known as 'The Elephant Man'. He suffered from a bone deformity, which may have been the result of a very rare disease known as Proteus syndrome.

He is commemorated in the City of London Cemetery by just a plaque mounted on a small concrete pedestal. It reads - simply - IN MEMORIAM / JOSEPH MERRICK / 1862-1890. His resting place is unremarkable, situated in a plot of similar memorials on the north side of Gardens Way, Only in 2024 was a memorial plaque placed in the grass by the pedestal. Although the rest of his remains are buried here, his skeleton resides in Barts Hospital, London.

These are the Memorial Gardens, and often there is an accompanying rose-bush to the memorial pedestals.

The Grave of Elizabeth Ann Everest, Winston Churchill's nannyELIZABETH ANN EVEREST - SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL'S NANNY

On the south side of Poplar Road, close to the junction with Memorial avenue, is the quite unremarkable grave of Elizabeth Ann Everest. Below the simple inscription of her name, date of death and age, is inscribed 'BY WILLIAM SPENCER CHURCHILL / AND'. What follows the 'And' is now below the ground level, but I understand that it reads 'JACK SPENCER CHURCHILL'. Jack was Winston's younger brother.

Inscription on Elizabeth Ann Everest's graveElizabeth was Winston Churchill's nanny, and she remained with the family from 1875 until 1893.When she died in 1895, Churchill attended the funeral service, and he paid for the headstone. It is said that his son, Randolph, wrote, "For many years afterwards he paid an annual sum to the local florist for the upkeep of the grave." (³)

Gladys Spencer - The Piano Lady

GLADYS SPENCER - THE PIANO LADY

Gladys Spencer was a respected local piano teacher, living nearby in Manor Park. She died in 1934, aged just 34.

As well as teaching piano, she also trained child dancers and performers at the Classical Academy of Music and dance in Rixsen Road, Manor Park. 

This is one of the more visited graves in the cemetery, although it isn't very easy for the gate-staff to direct people to, as her grave is set amongst many in a not-too-obvious part of the cemetery.

Apart from the monuments relating to the remains reinterred from the City churches, only two are mentioned in Pevsner Architectural Guides: Buildings of England - London East (2005): that of William Haywood and that of the Piano Lady: (The City of London Cemetery)…..mostly obelisks and angels on pedestals provide the principal accents. An eccentricity is the memorial to Gladys Spencer 1931 with piano and reclining figure”

Nurse Annie Catherine Brewster

ANNIE CATHERINE BREWSTER

This grave looks quite new when the photograph was taken in 2023, but it had recently been restored.

Annie Brewster was born in St Vincent in the West Indies in 1858. In 1881 she became a probationer nurse in the London Hospital, and was promoted to nurse in charge of the Ophthalmic Wards in 1888. She served in that position until she died in 1902, aged 43 years.

The Company of Nurses and the Royal British Nurses’ Association, together with the Corporation of London and Barts NHS Trust, worked together to restore the grave as a memorial to was one of the first people of African/Caribbean origin to become a nurse in England. A ceremony to mark the restoration took place on 29th March 2022. ⁽⁴⁾

Thanks to Gary Burks, the then Superintendent of the Cemetery, for pointing this interesting grave out to me.

Bobby Moore's Memorial

BOBBY MOORE'S MEMORIAL

John Roberts - Father of Modern Billiards

JOHN ROBERTS - 'THE FATHER OF MODERN BILLIARDS'

Another memorial that has perhaps a more familiar interest. My thanks to one of the cemetery gate-keeper staff who showed this memorial to me. The inscription reads:

Grave to Ron Smith

RONALD SMITH's GRAVE

Just north of the Church is a recent grave to 'Ron' Smith (1939 - 2021). On the grave ledger is sculpted an open book with a lengthy poem, describing the man. It begins:

DON'T CRY FOR ME

JUST A ROMANY BOY FROM MANOR PARK

DRIVING HORSES AND HAVING A LARK

GROWING UP EAGER, WITH MONEY TO GET

THE LOVE OF GAMBLING AND HAVING A BET

This is an example of the rarer-these-days traditional style of comemmorating the dead in a grand manner, and in a somewhat prime position near the Church.

'Amos'

AMOS GRAVE

This is another fairly recent grave. I first became aware of it in July 2020.

It is a grand and traditional-style grave with an impressively tall headstone. However, the headstone has only one word - the name 'AMOS' - in bas-relief at the top, and at the bottom a bas-relief figure of a cockerel.

On the sloping left-side of the grave slab is an image of a hare, and on the right is a racing-cart, or 'sulky'. At the front is a sleeping 'long' dog - perhaps a lurcher or greyhound.

The back of the main upright has an unusual surprise. Written onto the white marble are three lines of text, the middle a quote from Shakespeare's Hamlet.

The whole presents an extravagent and notable image of a man who was fond of the open-air life, and of hunting and sporting, especially when you see that the cockerel has an artificial spur attached.

I assume that there is more to be written about Amos - and that the grave and memorial is just waiting ready for its occupant.

James O'Neill's grave, with a tomb to Browne alongsideJAMES O'NEILL GRAVE

Nearby is another imposing modern grave, to James O'Neill (Died 2012), showing an Irish connection.

Part of the inscription reads:

'IN LOVING MEMORY OF

A HUSBAND, DADDY AND GRANDADDY'

Also in the photograph, the adjacent memorial (to the left) is very different in style but in the same grey marble which has become popular in recent years.

Buildings in the cemetery, other than memorials, are here

Other Features of the Cemetery are available here

 Paul Ferris  (begun 28th February 2023)

References:

* Grade Listed Buildings: https://historicengland.org.uk/

(1) A Geological Walk in the City of London Cemetery. Wendy Kirk and David Cook. Aldersbrook Geological Society

(2) https://hidden-london.com/nuggets/city-of-london-dragons/

(3) Coughlin, Con (2013). Churchill's First War: Young Winston at War with the Afghans. New York: St. Martin's Press. p. 63.

(4) https://www.companyofnurses.co.uk/annie-brewster-remembered/

(5) The City of London Cemetry Heritage Brochure (Edition 2, 2004)