Wanstead Park
Wanstead Parklands - Tree Avenues
The tree avenues as shown on Roque's map of 1745
Plans of the lands that comprised the estate of the owners of Wanstead House show extensive avenues of trees radiating from the house, particularly in the direction of London.
Some of these have been re-established to some extent - old trees having been replaced with newer ones - but there are in the area a few substantially large and old trees remaining from much earlier plantings. Particularly significant are specimens of sweet chestnut Castanea sativa in Bush Wood and on George Green, Wanstead.
As part of an "Introduction to Local Wildlife" course run during 2006/7 at the Workers Education Authority's (WEA) Wanstead House (a somewhat newer one!), some measurements of the trees on George Green were made. This involved measuring the girth and height of the four old trees that remain on the Green, plus a tree that was planted as a replacement in 1999. The girth measurement was made by means of a tape measure around the tree at the recommended height of 1.5 metres ("chest height"). The height measurement was made by means of an Inclinometer. This is a relatively simple device, which by aiming to the top-most part of the tree with the sights at an angle of 45 degrees (involving walking towards and away from the tree until that angle is achieved), and then measuring the distance from the observer to the tree and deducting the height of the observer from the result - a tree-height may be obtained. (photos)
During the exercise, a video record was being made on behalf of the Wanstead Parklands Community Project.
This exercise, particularly getting the knack of using the inclinometer, caused a deal of amusement amongst the course attendees, seemed to frighten the local home-bound schoolchildren, and elicited a visit from the police. Anyway, no arrests were made, no trees were injured, and results were obtained as follows:
Sweet Chestnut Trees on George Green, Wanstead
1 OS Reference: 40682 88069 Girth: 3.75cm. Height 6.8m.
Comment: Pollarded.
2 OS Reference: 40636 88143 Girth: 18cm. Height 3.8m.
Comment: Planted 1999. Position: 11.5m south of Tree 3, below.
3 OS Reference: 40630 88151 Girth: 1.6m. Height 13.0m.
Comment: Part of trunk missing; only half girth measured. Position: 7.0m south of Tree 4, below
. The tree was struck by lightning in 1984.
4 OS Reference: 40634 88161 Girth: 3.9m. Height 21.1m.
Comment: Tallest specimen of this group. Position: 7.6m south of Tree 5, below
5 OS Reference: 40630 88167 Girth: 6.0m. Height 18.8m.
Comment: Second tallest specimen of this group. Position: In same alignment as trees 2, 3 and 4.
Data collected by WEA Conservation class from Wanstead House, 6.iii.2007.
A return visit was made to the trees on George Green on 14/10/08. (photos). Although measurements were made of trees 1 and 5, as was expected, no noticeable increase in girth was measured. However tree 2, which was planted in 1999 as a replacement for the old tree that was felled as part of the Hackney-Redbridge road system, had increased from a girth of 18cm to 22cm. This is in spite of damage to the base of the tree caused, presumably, by the action of a sit-on grass mowing machine getting too close. (photo) This damage was also noticeable on other trees in the vicinity
Wanstead Parklands - the gateposts at Overton Drive
Gateposts at Overton Drive
The gateposts in November 2004
If you refer to the article by ''Robert the Waiter" from 'Punch' dated Jan-June 1883, reproduced on this website you will see reference to the mention of the "Manshun House of the last of the Alldermen" , which was situated at the junction of Blake Hall Road and Overton Drive (north side)
The house was known as "Park Gates" and was the home of Alderman Sir Thomas Finnis, Lord Mayor of London in 1856-57. The house was demolished in 1925, but on both sides of Overton Drive still stand two impressive gate posts placed there in 1715 by Sir Richard Child. These are said to bear Sir Richard Child's monogram.
Reproduced below is a copy of a drawing by Guglielma Lister in July or August 1940 (see Biography), from an undated photograph by Mr Alfred Scott of Stratford, probably in the early 1900's. The text with the drawing also states that the pillar on the right was much damaged by enemy action in October, 1940. The drawing is part of Newham Heritage Service's archive. Thanks to Newham Heritage Service for use of the image and this information.
The pillars underwent extensive repair and renovation during 2003.
Gateposts to Wanstead House
The text on the drawing reads:
Pillars of Entrance Gateway to Wanstead House
Standing 1940 in BlakeHall Road, Wanstead, at entrance to Overton Drive. The house seen between the Pillars (placed there in 1710 by Sir Richard Child) is 'Park Gates' known as the residence of Alderman Finnis it was demolished 1925. From photograph by Alfred Scott of (?), Stratford, before 'Overton Drive' was opened 1907 ? (Whole Plate, bromide)
Recording Map of Wanstead Park
Map of Wanstead Park
To download this map as a pdf file, click here. (This will download together with a recording map of Wanstead Flats)
The Grotto
Some time around 1760 an elaborate building known as Grotto was constructed by John, second Earl Tylney, on the west bank of the Ornamental Water. The structure was completed by 1764 and is said to have cost £2000, but with the addition of decoration and ornamentation was later valued at £40,000. Grottoes were a type of folly (that is, an architectural erection without functional intention) very popular with rich 18th century landowners. In fact, in many cases it is said that the landowner engaged a person to live in the folly and act the part of a real hermit. Whether this happened in the case of Wanstead Park is not known. In the case of the park's grotto, it is probable that the structure was lived in at some time, and below the living accommodating there was a boathouse - so that this one was more functional than many!
The front of the building, facing the lake, was of rough stone with a variety of ornamental details including arches and niches, with a landing stage for boats. A central open arch gave access to a boathouse in which were storage and repair facilities. A passage on the north side of the building gave access to a domed top-lit chamber above the boathouse, which was also accessible by means of steps from the lake. The chamber had a stained glass window, an elaborate pebble-pattern floor and was decorated with shells, crystals and mirrors. A remains of a very few of these could still be seen even up to the 1960's, but only a few embedded small shells remain visible now. There were two smaller rooms behind the chamber - one above the other - which may have served as an apartment for the keeper. When the Park was opened to the public in 1882 part of the enclosed space surrounding the old Grotto was white in early spring with snowdrops.
From 1882 when the park was opened to the public it was looked after by a caretaker, Mr. Puffet, and visitors could pay for a visit. An amusing article describing Mr Puffet was written in an edition of "Punch" magazine. Early in the 1880's, John T Bedford started writing for this satirical magazine under the nomme de plume ''Robert the Waiter" and the article describes a visit of the members of the Epping Forest and Open Spaces Committee to Wanstead Park where they met the newly appointed Keeper Puffet. (click here for the article)
In November 1884 the Grotto was damaged by fire. The most usual account of what happened relates to a workman who was re-tarring the boat which was kept in the boathouse under the Grotto. He did not notice the tar bubbling over, and the Grotto was set alight. Unfortunately, the lake had been drained for cleaning, so there was no ready supply of water available to fight the fire, and the building was all but destroyed. The facade survived, together with some of the interior and the access passage.
Some renovation work has been done from time to time and an archaeological exploration was undertaken in the winter of 1997/8 by the Museum of London Archaeological Service (MoLAS). This resulted in the exposure after many years of the dock of the boathouse which was incorporated into the structure (photo). It was in this dock that the punt that is featured in some photographs of the ornamental waters would have been moored.
Unfortunately, after the work had been completed and the Grotto was once again locked behind its fence, vegetation was allowed to grow up within and around the fenced enclosure so that ten years afterwards it could be difficult to see that the structure was there, even if standing just outside the fence! The only relatively clear view was from the opposite bank of the Ornamental Water, but by 2010 during the summer only a small amount of the stonework was visible and the structure was effectively camouflaged into the landscape.
In January 2011 a clearance operation was begun which culminated in a ten-person work party consisting of City of London staff and volunteers who carefully cleared the vegetation from the rear of the structure, resulting in it once again being visible. The vegetation was found to be mainly ivy, with considerable sycamore, alder growing from the boat-dock and one small self-seeded yew on the stonework of the front of the grotto. A close inspection of the brick and stonework did not reveal any other species of flowering plant, although mosses, liverworts and lichens may well have been present. Some aspects of the Grotto through the years are shown below, including photographs taken during this work.
When the level of the Ornamental Water is low, it is possible to see on the opposite bank the remains of a bridge which connected across to the Grotto. (photo).
The Grotto is a Grade 11 listed building.
A visit to Wanstead Park by Robert the Waiter
''Robert the Waiter" was the nomme de plume of John Thomas Bedford, who was a Member of the Court of Common Council of the Corporation of London. He died in 1900 at the age of 87 and his grave is in the City of London Cemetery. From the early 1880's "Robert" contributed articles to the illustrated magazine Punch, or the London Charivari, with his own particular outlook on places in London. He organised an excursion of a large party of interested persons to visit Epping Forest - where they met the newly appointed park-keeper, Robert Puffet - and this article is the result.
Robert was the son of William Puffett, who was born in 1819 and died in 1904. William became head keeper of Wanstead Park, with his son Robert - who was born about 1853 - also becoming a keeper. Later, William ran a refreshment kiosk at the park.
I especially liked some of the words used: 'Parker' is a good and old word, but not used now except that as a child we used the term Parkie or Parky. 'Scrowging' is really good - but not in the Oxford English Dictionary - it should be; it means to squeeze, or to crowd. The term "straight as a Douglas" I suspect relates to the Douglas fir, named after David Douglas, (1798~1834) the Scottish botanist who sent the first specimens for identification. From Douglas finding the tree to when it was first scientifically named in 1837 to "Robert's" article is not that many years - but it seemed that the tree had already made an impact!
"Wite Cundit House" was a pleasure resort some two or three miles to the north-east of another of its time: Marylebone Gardens. White Conduit House appears to have developed partially from an ale-house, possibly a small tavern, which it was said became popular to the accompaniment of much hard drinking on the day Charles I lost his head. The origin of the name comes from the fact that there was a water-conduit in an adjacent field, faced with white stone. The house itself, however, had its own grounds, which were attractively laid out when the whole property was reconstructed somewhere about 1745. At that time a Long Room was erected, and the gardens provided with a fish-pond and numerous arbours. Later, the White Conduit House became known as the "Minor Vauxhall" ("old Woxhall Gardens") and was the scene of balloon ascents, fireworks, and evening concerts.
The "Manshun House of the last of the Alldermen" was situated at the junction of Blake Hall Road and Overton Drive (north side). The house was known as "Park Gates" and was the home of Alderman Sir Thomas Finnis, Lord Mayor of London in 1856-57. The house was demolished in 1925, but on both sides of Overton Drive still stand two impressive gate posts placed there in 1715 by Sir Richard Child. "Happy Roastweal Gardens" must have been "Robert's" reference to the Rosherville Gardens at Gravesend - "A place of amusement..., containing a theatre, dancing platform, and restaurant."
The article amused me, and interested me that so much was still recognisable; not just the places but dare I say - even some of the people! I remember a Forest Keeper from Wanstead Park who retired some years ago. With his "Well, they do that" when some minor misdemeanour had been pointed out to him, I wonder how like "Mr Puffem" he was? Still, at least we've got the victuals now - and grateful I've been for a cup of tea or an ice cream after a walk round or some practical work And we've still got the grand Old Corporation - and maybe we're still an ungrateful public!
The article below is copied as closely as possible to the original found in a copy of 'Punch' dated Jan-June 1883.
Paul Ferris, August 2009
"ROBERT" AT WANSTEAD PARK
If anybody as is just a little tired of the bussel and the scrowging and the pushing and the noise of Cheapside, and of the Poulty on Cornhill wants a thurro change, he hasn't far to go for to find it, thanks again to the grand Old Copperashun. as is allus a-doing sumthink or other for a ungreatefool public. And should any right honerabble members of the venerable Ouse of Lords as happens to live in the naybrood of White Chapel, and is over fatigued with the hawfool amount of work as they has to do daily every night, pine for a change, jest like a poor devil of a Raddical, he can allus get it in sumthink less than no time. For instance, he can take the Tram and go for thrippence to Layton Stone, and then go straight as a Douglas till he cums to the Manshun House of the last of the Alldermen, Allderman FINIS, and then go over to the left and fust to yer right and there you are, at the entrance to Wonsted Park Plezzer Grounds. You've no occashun to nock at the dore, because its only a Gate, but in you gos in yer own rite, like as a bloomin Free Holder, and you walks rite on till you comes to the Temple, not as like the Temple in Fleet Street coz there aint no Lawyers, and not like the Temple on the Oben Wireduck cos there aint no PARKER, but only a most quiet and respectable keeper of the name of PUFFEM, so there is a sort of family likeness in all three after all.
Having paid yer respects to Mr. PUFFEM, you takes the parth to your rite and you come in about 10 minits to what I feels inclined to call about the thirteenth wunder of the World, reckning Happy Roastweal Gardens as about the twelf, and that is the wunderfullest Grot Oh ! in Yourrope ! I saw at once by his new unyform and his sollem demeaner that Mr. PUFFEM is a man of the strictest werracity, or I should have been inclined to dout him wen he told me it was all bilt by a Lady, and that it cost her jest fifty thousand pound ! It seems a lot of money, but if it is all bilt of preshus stones, as Mr. PUFFEM says, we knows as dimonds and them sort of things does run into a lot. However be that as it may, I quite agree with a rayther exsited Koster Monger who said, with rayther unnecessary wigger of langwidge, that with that Grot Oh ! for his crib and them perch ponds for his fish in, he shouldn't want any other pair-o'-dice. Ah ! them's somethink like Fish Ponds them is, why, Mr PUFFEM acshally told me, with that sollem look of his, that sumtimes of a evening the Fish is a-jumping about. And a-splashing to that extent, that you'd think as there was a lot of boys a-bathing there ! And he looks at you so serious that you carnt carp at his Fish stories. When he's crammed you full of Fish, then he begins about Poachers. Somethink like Poachers too, them is. Why, the fust thing as they poached drectly as he was apointed, but before he had his new Unyform. was all the led off the roof of the Grot Oh ! That wasn't bad for a beginning. The nex as they poached wasn't eggs, as I naterally thort when he asked me to guess, but about 36 duzzen of butiful white water lilies. And think of their hartfulness in getting at 'em.. As the lillies was in the middle of the Lake they strips theirselves to their skins for fear of wetting theirselves, and then boldly plunges in up to their nees in water, and higher than that, and carries 'em ashore, hoping to sell 'em at the Market price of four shillings a duzzen. But a eye was a-watching on 'em they couldn't see, tho' he had his new Unyform on, and the Perlease siezed 'em in their unpertected condition, lit'rally catching 'em in the naked fac, when of course they couldn't run away, and the awful wengence of the Lor come down on 'em to the extent of twelve shillings!
Well - I have in my long egsperience seen about as many butiful places as most Waiters. I've seen old Woxhall Gardens, and Wite Cunditt House and Ornsey Wood, and Iberry Barn, but I haven't the least esitation in giving the Parm Tree to Wonsted. Of course there's a intire absense of those elewaiting amusements - such as swings and settrer - in which the nobel Brittish Publick takes such grate delight, tho', judging from what has been dun in Epping Forrest in that time, we may hope in a werry short time to have even them, but for who can manage to spend a few ours in the butiful pure hair without 'em, there isn't a lovelier spot for rest and quiet and peaceful injoyment, than Wonsted Park.
And how strange to think, as Mr. PUFFEM told us, that if these butiful grounds had not one blonged about a hundred Years ago to one of the greatest scamps in Youroppe, who married the pore gal who owned 'em for her money, and then broke her heart by his unkindness and neglec, the Copperashun would never have been able to buy 'em for the use and enjoyment of the Public.
One thing as struck me harder p'raps than it would strike nonperfeshnuls, is the hutter habsence of wittles !
BROWN says as how even the Copperashun wants a little rest now and then for the Stummick's sake, and so on them occasions, they cums down here and inwardly digests plenty of fresh hair, and then goes back to the place whence they came, like giants refreshed.
I'm afraid BROWN ain't got no reverence. In fac he confesses as much, for I've herd him say that "no Man's a Nero either to his Wally or his Waiter."
ROBERT